The famend British jeweller, tapped by icons and idols from Machine Gun Kelly to Elton John, launches a males’s assortment that punctures jewelry’s gender norms
Wrapped across the beating coronary heart of Stephen Webster’s famend jewelry work is the thorn, a motif that studs an virtually 25-year archive of edgy, daring items. As we speak, the British jeweller celebrates the enduring icon and pioneering aesthetic with the Thorn Dependancy assortment.
The unique thorn was impressed by tattoo magazines Stephen had picked up whereas honeymooning together with his spouse Anatasia in Rio, Brazil in 1999. He drew the intricate thorn design, like that of these iconic 90s armband tattoos, on the stretched pores and skin of Assia’s pregnant stomach. On returning house from the vacation, he created the primary Tattoo Thorn assortment. That is the primary full assortment they’ve revived – a males’s assortment, however styled gender impartial – with trendy new twists.
After we meet up with Stephen and his daughter and collaborator Amy Webster over Zoom, he’s every week into a visit to Bangkok for stone shopping for and visiting producers – a journey he used to make often pre-pandemic. Now, the excitement is again, and Stephen is trying to find inspiration. “The enterprise is rising within the extra bespoke space, folks need issues that really feel significant,” he says. “They need hidden messages, birthstones, engravings. Possibly it’s pandemic triggered – desirous to really feel near others – however there’s a requirement for one thing extra private.”
“Going into the archive and choosing up the thorn motif, seeing how we are able to twist and modernise it to attraction to the modern jewelry wearer, was so thrilling. We obtained to go to city!” says Amy. Amy, who began out as a movie editor, joined her father’s enterprise three years in the past and has developed in development analysis, advertising and marketing, and styling campaigns. It’s a small however mighty workforce that takes the work familially and personally.
“While you’re on the front-end creatively you possibly can’t stagnate, however you can also’t miss the chance to look again and mirror and revive. Amy and her technology can do this,” provides Stephen.
A wiley, inventive manner of working evokes jewelry that has captivated an epochal clientele of icons and idols from Elizabeth Taylor to Elton John, Ozzy Osbourne, and Angelina Jolie. Webster helped to visually outline one in all 2022’s wildest popular culture moments but – that, being Machine Gun Kelly’s proposal to Megan Fox. The ring, designed with MGK by Webster, is a toi et moi model ring of two interlocking thorn bands to hitch the couple’s birthstones – diamonds and emeralds. After the proposal, they drank one another’s blood. Who else to examine a rock and roll ring that displays the extra-as-hell goth couple-du-jour’s everlasting love than jewelry insurgent Webster?
“He’s an exceptional canvas and collaborator for us,” Stephen says. “He highlights these extremes you possibly can take it to, but in addition how you could find consolation in your individual model.”
As he says, “we’re in a renaissance interval of jewelry”. It’s an thrilling house to be, as gender norms are obliterated on the runway and the pandemic invigorates a collective need for items which are sentimental, particular, and inform a narrative. And ofc, rock is having a second – from the theatrics of MGK-Fox and Miley, to the nocturnal aesthetics of Indie Sleaze; leather, studs, and latex at Versace, 16Arlington, and Coperni, and normal post-pan social gathering extra.
The Thorn Dependancy assortment speaks to Webster’s hardline, ferociously cool aesthetic and a deft capability to seize a zeitgeist. Persona and personalisation come earlier than gender, and the gathering celebrates the road’s traversing of masculine and female aesthetics – a sensibility his jewelry has performed with lengthy earlier than the mainstream cultural panorama, the place MGK stacks his rings over painted nails, or Harry Styles wears pearls.
“After we first launched the lads’s assortment greater than 20 years in the past, there wasn’t a lot in the marketplace that was designed and accessible for males,” says Stephen. “It was kind of odds and sods actually, and I believe that made it really feel very thrilling. Males, I believe, discovered it fairly obscure shopping for jewelry and had an uncertainty as to what suited them or was acceptable. We’ve been part of an schooling on this world. Now with this assortment, we’re capable of lean much more into the gender impartial, be extra free creatively.”
“It is being worn in ways in which I’ve by no means seen earlier than – it’s way more theatrical and worn in additional adventurous methods,” provides Amy. “Thorn Dependancy got here alongside on the proper time.”
Thorn Dependancy is available in sterling silver and 18K gold, making it as accessible as it’s buildable and adaptable to types. The signature Thorn linked chain is woven by means of signet rings, canine tags, ID bracelets and razor tag earrings. The items might be customised with polished steel, pave set, or with inlaid stones akin to Malachite, Lapis, and Tiger Iron.
“We’ve launched extra silhouettes and color – I’ve all the time actually loved color in my girls’s jewelry. There’s a glamour and age that feels prefer it’s for anyone, with the icon of the thorn taking centre stage,” Stephen says, including that Amy has been instrumental in increasing how the model displays an individual of her youthful technology discovering their private place for his or her jewelry.
“Even my associates who I might see as tremendous inventive, fashionable, and outgoing might be intimidated by the thought of buying jewelry. Part of the gathering is about encouraging accessibility. Silvers are an excellent entry level, particularly for individuals who wish to do this layered look,” Amy says. “We’re introducing some uncommon stones, just like the Lapis – it’s deep blue with gold specks. Malachite is that this stripy inexperienced and Tiger Iron seems prefer it has metallic rivers operating by means of it. It’s all distinctive, simply personalised, no gender norms. It seems pure, uncooked, and natural, which additionally displays that closeness folks wish to really feel to nature today. And, Stephen’s love of gem-hunting in fact.” As the gathering continues to broaden and develop, Stephen hopes to introduce an thrilling materials – fossilised dinosaur bone.
Previous world craftsmanship is modernised with Webster’s underground-inspired touches, all with moral manufacturing in thoughts. Once more, one thing Webster was doubling down on earlier than sustainable motion was anticipated and demanded. This assortment is crafted utilizing recycled silver and 18ct recycled gold. “We’ve got a inexperienced workforce,” says Stephen. “It’s all facets of the enterprise.” He was one of many first jewellers to realize a Truthful Commerce Gold Licence, and received Grosvenor Britain and Eire’s first sustainability award final 12 months.
“As a jeweller, we’re concerning the ‘sluggish style’ – I wish to make amulets, household items, objects which are going to final a lifetime,” Stephen says. “That’s a accountability as a inventive individual and a sustainable enterprise.” Like a thorn, Stephen Webster stays sharp on model and substance – don’t sleep on the sleepers or the signets.
Thorn Dependancy is on the market to view solely at Stephen Webster’s No Regrets Lounge, Mount Road London. Costs begin at £50